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>> Link directly to this blog
http://modelfireboats.com/?link=32
| Arun 52" Scale Lifeboat | |
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| Showing page 1 of 2 | Jump to page: 1 2 |
| Author: Dave M Total Posts: 12 Total Photos: 33 Total Responses: 12 | Most recent posts shown first (Show oldest first) |
| Arun Lifeboat rebuild continues - Posted: 12:36 on the 12th Jun 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2941 |
| Still reworking the hull to correct the deck levels. Also worked on the deck surround by filling with P38 and sanding to shape. The original edging was about 4mm oversize. Rubber edging will finish the job. I now need to wet and dry the deck and fill minor imperfections. Also the steps need rasing to meet the new deck level.
Have started on the mast detail. Drew a plan to size from the RNLI plans and working from actual photos of the real boat fabricated the mountings. I am presently working on the VHF aerial at the very top. I need to find some way to join the mast array, basically two H aerials at 90deg to each other. Soldering not quite right so am working on plastic (delrin) to make the joins. I intend to make the whole mast/aerial array detachable from the open cockpit floor as this will make carrying so much easier. The picture shows the mast so far, I have not fixed the upper mast so alignment is out.
Dave
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| More Cabin & Deck Alterations - Posted: 00:44 on the 26th May 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2872 |
| | Seems like the cabin was inaccurate where the steps lead to the rear deck. I have had to cut out the offending moulding and reattach at the correct angle. The side panel at the other side of the rear cabin was also incorrect and this has also been corrected. The rear deck was moulded to allow a lip around the cabin which was not on the 52-08 I am modelling so the whole of the rear deck up to the steps and rearwards to the transom has been filled with P38 to make all flush. Also the front deck should be flush with the cabin base. This required a fillet of P38 from the raised cabin sides forward to the deck. The moulding has a flange all the way round the deck where the hull and deck were joined. This has been filled with P38 so the deck will be flush to the edge of the flange. The D shaped rubber fender will be fixed to the new edge. |
| More Tests and Construction - Posted: 19:18 on the 10th May 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2816 |
| Motors now installed and tested. Working well with 12v 7Ahr gel cell. Comes on plane easily and giving over 45 mins run times. I have corrected the waterline and the hull is painted to deck level. Made the two exhaust ports with working lids but not yet fitted. Work now started on the cabin. Reworked the back as I am not fitting the gantry, and will model the vessel as fitted with the later rear launching ramp for the Y boat. Filed all the moulded windows flush and am contemplating Speedline fittings. Cabin rails commenced. Am using 4mm aluminium rod fitted and secured with cyano and brass pins fitted into drilled holes in the rails and stanchions. Any gaps filled with plastic padding. Finished result is painted white. I have fitted each stanchion into a 3mm hole drilled into the cabin top. I turned 1mm steps for 4mm on each stanchion so the final result will be strong. Started work on the riveted angle around the top cockpit. Using 1mm litho plate with rivet effect created with rounded nails tapped into back of plate.
Made 3 lifebelts from foam board turned on lathe and sanded to profile. I may make a mould so I can cast more as 1/12 scale is becoming a favourite for me. Nearly forgot I have sources stanchions and fittings from Model Slipway and 12ba hex bolts/nuts from Macc Models so I can now really make progress.
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| Rebuild continues - Posted: 09:12 on the 5th Apr 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2643 |
| After 2 months of snow rain and wind I have finally managed to continue. The hull has been tested on the lake and the Buhler motors found to be wanting. Will replace with Graupner speed 8/900 bb motors again using 60 mm 4 blade props, direct drive and 12v SLA. Other club members use these in similar boats (Exploit RNVR) and works well with water cooling ( 4mm B&Q brass tubing wrapped round a former then fitted to motors).
Kick boards in progress but need to make triangular mounts for the Stanchions (brass sheet formed in a jig + tube silver soldered). Stanchions being sourced or may make 4mm aluminium rod (B&B), Window frames will be moulded from casting resin (mixed with Aluminium grains ), photo acrylic for the windows.
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| Arun Hull preparation - Posted: 23:47 on the 25th Jan 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2418 |
| Much worse than I expected. The paint stripper worked fine but
the hull and deck are not smooth. I have spent three days rubbing and filling and expect to spend several more to achieve the base required to obtain a good paint finish. Moulded fiberglass hulls need careful sanding to provide a good paint key and to remove small imperfections. Unfortunately for me this model had not been touched before the original paint was applied. The deck has many bits moulded in place so the sanding has to be careful to avoid these. Lots of Cyano had been used to attach the railings and as most was on the deck this has needed lots of work to remove. The continuing cold weather is not helping as I prefer to sand in the fresh air and P38 takes ages to set in low temps!. I have sourced some Aluminium strip and angle from B&Q so can start making the brackets and kick boards. Just need to get 200 12BA nuts and hex bolts and make a drilling/cutting template!
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| Paint stripping - Posted: 13:22 on the 13th Jan 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2392 |
| Have cleaned off all old paint from deck. Need some steel wool to finish off. Obvious that original paint job was done without keying the Fiberglass moulding so am glad that I have removed the paint. There was little mess as the paint came off clean in long dry(ish) strips with a triangular scraper leaving a clean fiberglass casting. I used the vacuum to pick up the residual bits as they were removed by the scraper. I used a small plastic container to collect the initial scapings, which were easily bagged and binned. I will treat the hull next but consider the stripper a success.
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| Paint Stripping - Posted: 16:09 on the 12th Jan 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2389 |
| Still too cold for the silicon rubber but motors in place. Tried to find some Fairy oven cleaner without success. B&Q had some paste stuff(Polyfilla less mess) that said it removed paint to a dry brush off dust. Painted it on today and will check progress tomorrow. Initial result is promising, the last picture shows a small amount rubbed away with the fibreglass untouched underneath. Certainly a job for the garage. Smelt like cellulose spay paint and was grey like plastic padding. I have some Nitromors in reserve, just in case. Found a supplier of BA nuts and bolts and ordered a selection of the smaller sizes to see which look correct. On closer examination it is clear that I need a right angle bracket not a T bracket as originally thought. Much easier as I can use brass strip, drill and cut whilst flat and then bend to shape. The kick board is 5mm x 2.5mm thick. Needs to be strong as the railing uprights are fixed to it. Not sure what wood to use. As everything will be drilled and bolted I may use aluminium for strength. Anyone any ideas?
dave
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| Further Hull Progress - Posted: 20:35 on the 10th Jan 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2379 |
| Have only managed a couple of hours work since the beginning of the year. Snow too deep to get to shed. I have now mounted the motors but still need to make the silicon rubber undermounts. Intended to do this but weather far too cold even indoors to work with two part casting silicon. I therefore moved to the deck which is another fiberglass moulding. Unfortunately for me everthing is painted (daubed) with an oil based paint so I will need to strip it all off so that I can use my preferred acrylic. I have tried rubbing down but I cannot get a good surface so off it will have to come. I will try some of the suggestions posted on the site but am resigned to a messy tedious process. The decks are edged with kick boards mounted with small brackets and as the guard rails are attached to the boards both need to be strong and functional. I will need to make circa 100 brackets and intend to use aluminium T angle, cut and drilled to size. As each bracket has 4 bolts I will need to source a supply of brass 8BA nuts and bolts. Anyone know of a supplier?
dave |
| Hull progress - Posted: 14:05 on the 1st Jan 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2328 |
| Managed to progress with the rudder and motor installation. Replaced the original rudders with new brass ones cut to correct profile and silver soldered to the original shafts. I will detail with Plastic Padding once I can obtain more info. Used some Delrin tube to make the rudder posts vertical and epoxied in place. The rudders run in nylon shafts secured with a brass nut. The epoxy merely fills in the gaps round the mountings as Delrin/nylon doesn't take glue. I finished off in side the hull with a plastic padding fillet bonded to the Fibreglass hull to give extra structural strength. The rudders are linked with a rod and I made a plastic shelf to mount the servo and support the tops of the rudder shafts. A short rod from the servo arm to one of the rudder arms completes the control. The whole shelf and servo lifts off to allow for any servicing. I will replace the plastic servo clips with solid brass rod once the linkages have been adjusted on the water. In my experience plastic on a control has a nasty habit of failing usually when you need control the most. I am now working on the motor mounts and have modified the brass sheet supports by silver soldering a gusset down one side to keep everything nice and solid. The motors will be held by four bolts into nuts fastened into the wooden plinths I made earlier. Initially I will align with Balsa wood packing. I will make the final packing from some Silicon moulding to allow for final adjustment and hopefully deaden the sound from the motors.
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| More hull rebuild - Posted: 22:20 on the 17th Dec 2009 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=264 |
| Unexpected delays prevented me from working on the boat. Now managed to fit the prop shafts and A frames. Used matched formers at ends of both shafts to align correctly. Needed to make quite wide slots in the fiberglass hull to get everything square and keeping the shafts straight. Tacked in place with epoxy and when set rechecked everything before covering all the holes round the shafts and over the original hole mountings with fiberglass matting fixed with resin. When dry filled and flared all the holes on the outside of the hull with plastic padding (PP). Rubbed down when dry and base coats of white and black acrylic applied to identify the imperfections. Will wet and dry to good finish when completely dry, I now need to make flared mountings for the rudder shafts, probably with delrin or brass all fixed with PP and flared to shape. The rudders will use the original nylon mounts but I will replace the blades on the brass shafts with larger brass sheet cut to correct size and silver soldered, I do not trust the original riveted mounting for such a vulnerable area. The photos show interior and exterior views. The correct prop shaft position makes the model look much more balanced and will give a much more realistic performance.
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