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http://modelfireboats.com/?link=30
| Dusseldorf Fire Boat | |
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| On the water ! - Posted: 12:30 on the 18th May 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2848 |
| Well, finally remembered to take a camaera with me, when I took my firebaot to tghe local pool today. Weather was brilliant, albeit a bit choppy. it was just a pity there wasnt someone else there to either take control whilst i did some picture takeing, or someone holding the camera, So please , I appologise for camera shake, but think whats here is clear enough to view.
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| Carry strop - Posted: 12:49 on the 22nd Apr 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2729 |
| I have finally got around to making a replacement "bee hive" air intake for the upper deck, I made it from cutting 2 differing diameters of balsa discs, then using a length of dowel through the middle.
i have test run the boat, all seems fine, only one things wrong, I forgot to take my camrea along with me, so dont have any film footage as yet, will have to wait till next pool visit.
Main reason for this blog update was to show you all my cheap and simple method of getting your boat, to and from the car as well as in and out of the water, especially if the water level is a couple of feet lower than the deck level.
I use a carry handle, made from a length of wooden broom handle [to give idea of diameter/size] and a couple of 30mm wide luggage straps. these are loosely affixed to the handle and have some thin rubber [old car mat] slipped over at the bottom, to protect the boat hull and also to act as a "spreader" when sliding under the boat when lifting out of the water.
if you leave the strap adjusters on, you can then adjust the height of the straps to suit different boats and also differing water levels you come across.
Cheap, simple and small enough to stow afterwards, and if you do get it wet, well simply hang outside for an hour ot 2 and dries no problem.
i find these handles better than trying to balance a boat on a trolley, as you run risk of damage, plus takes you twice as long to walk to the water, plus gives you backache in the process, so its easier and simple to carry it anyway.
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| Decal detailing - Posted: 13:17 on the 17th Jan 2010 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=2405 |
| Still trying to obtain or make a second "bee hive" induction filter for the upper deck, so in the meantime I bought some decals from "custom decals". they make some rather nice scale boat decals in various scales, ranging from 1:48th, 1:32nd, 1:24th 1:16th and 1:12th. OK so all decals are in English, which do look a little out of place on my German boat, but at least Joe public can read them when on display. they include: keep shut at sea,survivors fasten seat belts,first aid,use ear protectors,open/shut] [for handles & hatches], no smoking and radio warning signs
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| Dusseldorf update. - Posted: 14:35 on the 26th Dec 2009 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=268 |
| Sorry not been updating this for a while, but I had to wait for some rudder arms from Robbe, plus some more electronic switchgear [which still hasnt arrived - well done Electronise!].
I had a problem with the original rudder arms, in so much as due to their age, plus the boat had originally suffered from a water leak in the hull, the rudder arms had corroded badly and i was unable to remove the locking bolts from the rudder posts, enebling me to replace the rudder post seals and re lubricate the rudder shafts.
So after a few weeks patience, replacement rudder arms arrived and I was able to do the task in hand.
One item of electronice I have found very useful, is a "servo tester", simply plug the servo lead you wish to "test" in one side and plug a reciever battery pack in the other. "Hey presto!" you can now individually test a servo, without having to power up the whole system, so for something like setting up the rudder arc's, this operation is oh so simple and easy to do, without having to use the transmitter [or its batteries], leaves more space on the work bench as you dont have to worry about where the transmitter is either, just in case it gets knocked off.
I am still waiting for one vital electronic "switcher", which electronise did promise would be ready in 3 weeks, but its now over 6. Will give them a call in the early new year now. but this will control some of the lights and horns/sirens, so rather than having to buy a 9 + channel transmitter system [or even the 14 channel recommended by Robbe], I can control all I wish from a 6 channel. |
| Wiring time. - Posted: 13:38 on the 18th Nov 2009 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=254 |
| Ive now installed the engine sound module, now that i have finaly managed it to voltage sense off the robbe motors. Ive also installed a "tug air horn", sounds a bit like an american diesel train horn, but will certanly be heard when across the water!
All the navigation and blue/red emergency lights function, the searchlight along with power supply to the main water pump for the water monitors.
ive wired them to a switch panel for now [as a temporary measure] as Im awaiting an electronise 4 switcher module, to enable me to use one joystick lever to operate all the light/sound systems.
The radar is powered and has its own seperate switch [just for simplicity].
All lights are "led's" so battery drain is minimal, leaving more juice to keep it afloat on the water for longer. the main motors and reciever pack run off the same battery, so less to swap when it does go flat, having to now only swap one battery instead of 3. |
| Rotating fire monitors [pt2] - Posted: 23:40 on the 10th Nov 2009 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=253 |
| ive attatched some pics that now show the full rotational ability of the robbe pulley kits, as you will notice, pic 1 shows full turn one way, pic 2 shows centre - neutral, pic 3 shows full turn opposite direction.
im impressed with the robe pulley kits, plus you can turn the monitors as fast or as slow as you wish, if you use one of the "joystick" servo plugs.
now all i need is some target practise!
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| Rotating fire monitor! - Posted: 23:35 on the 10th Nov 2009 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=252 |
| Ok, so ive decided to simply make my fire monitors rotate and fire water. Ive left eh monitor so they wil actually raise and lower, so all the springs and pivots are still functional, but didnt want to add another 3 servos in the hull to actuate the fine nylon chords to raise and lower them. they seem to look better firing at maximum rake anyway.
So i decided to use the robbe rotating pulley sets, these give you a pair of pullies [large for the servo -small for the monitor], a good length of nylon chord and a spring, so you can pre load the chord to prevent it slipping when rotating.
Once built up its simply a case of re checking the "centre" position and then testing. the setup gives a good 200 degrees of rotation Id say, so far better than trying to use a servo rod and link and get a misely 90 - 12 degrees.
Pics to follow .................
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| Anti Slip Decking - Posted: 20:33 on the 26th Oct 2009 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=251 |
| Ive now decided to rid my boat of the incorrect deck colour, plus add the "sure grip/ anti slip decking the boat should have. I could of simply purchased some sheets of plastic replica "diamond plate" flooring, but think that looks a bit too artificial, plus a little over scale. So ive followed some suggestions and used "cotton bandage" instead.
I initially dry cut some strips to length and then cut to shape to trim round all the handrail stantions, then applied a decent coat of matt grey paint to the deck floor, lowered the bandage strips on to the paint. then by carefully pressing down with the tip of a broad paint brush, moved the bandage stip in to its final position. then carefully over painting with paint till all the bandage is coated and has absorbed the paint. leave to dry for 24hrs and the resultant finish is acceptable as an anti slip deck. And at little cost too!
the photo's show the deck with bandage applied, its before final repainting to clean up the outer edges where grey deck meets red paintwork, but you can get the idea.
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| Main mast pt3 - Posted: 23:56 on the 17th Oct 2009 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=249 |
| Ive now put the main mast on a trial fit on the upper hull. Ive decided to relocate the loud hailer speaker and set on the side of the mast, it seems to look more realistic there, rather than stuck to the roof panel. Ive also added a radar dome to the side of the main mast, plus fitted motorised rader dish to the original rader mount, this is powered by a 1.5volt geared motor, giving a semi realistic rotatoinal speed of about 30rpm, so really looks the part.
im yet to redrill the control room roff to add some led navigation lights, but once thats done, I can then start sorting out the witing loom for all the upper deck lights, but need ot get them all fitted first before deciding on cable routes to their respective controllers.
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| Main mast pt2 - Posted: 21:36 on the 15th Oct 2009 | | Link directly to this post - (Paste into forums etc for reference) >> http://modelfireboats.com/?link=248 |
| Ok, so Ive now made a "silhouette" style main mast for my boat, but to enable operation off all the lights, ive had to apply some artistic license! the mast is a little thicker in width simply to allow the cables to run through the inner core and exit through the roof panel of the main control cabin.
the mast is now rigged with 2 forward facing white marker lights and 3 flashing blue/red strobes. 1 is on the very top of the mast, the other 2 are on side jobs a little lower down. these will be linked in with some blue strobes fitted on the upper cabin bodywork, purely for "visual effect" when attending a river emergency.
one all the glue bonding [and sealing] the led's is set, I will then start painting the mast
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